New Year, new regulations—(kind of)! As we step into 2025, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has decided that it’s time to give the talc industry a little more TLC—specifically when it comes to testing for the sneaky mineral asbestos. It’s a big deal because, as we all know, asbestos and talc are akin to the least desirable dinner guests: if they show up, it’s a health hazard, and nobody’s happy.
So, what’s the FDA cooking up? A proposed rule on testing methods for detecting and identifying asbestos in talc-containing cosmetic products. While not the most riveting per se, it’s one of those important yet overlooked issues that could impact everything from manufacturers and formulators’ production of baby powder to high-end face powder. So, buckle up as we break down why this proposed rule could be the real beauty breakthrough of 2025.
The Dramatic Tale of Talc and Asbestos: A Relationship We Didn’t Ask For
Before we dive into the new rules, let’s talk about why this matters. Talc is a naturally occurring mineral used in cosmetics for its absorbent and smoothing properties, making it a staple in products like body powders, eyeshadows, and blushes. But here’s the kicker: sometimes, asbestos—a mineral linked to serious lung diseases, including cancer—lurks around in talc. They’re like distant cousins at a family reunion: they both come from the earth, but you’d prefer them to stay in separate corners of the room.
The problem arises when the talc is mined or processed in a way that inadvertently allows asbestos contamination. If you’ve ever wondered whether your favorite talc-based product might contain a little extra something, this is where the FDA comes in, e.g. to ensure that the industry has more robust, standardized testing methods to detect and identify asbestos in talc before it makes its way into your cosmetic products.
What’s This New Rule All About?
The FDA’s proposed new rule, mandated by the Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act (MoCRA) would require cosmetic manufacturers to use reliable, validated, and standardized testing methods to detect asbestos in talc. These testing methods would be based on sound science to set clear expectations for testing protocols and, importantly, who gets to do the testing.
The FDA is recommending that companies use both Polarized Light Microscopy (PLM) and Transmission Electron Microscopy/Energy Dispersive Spectroscopy/Selected Area Electron Diffraction (TEM/EDS/SAED) as testing methodology. The proposed rule also requires manufacturers to test representative samples of each batch or lot of talc-containing cosmetic product or on representative samples of each batch or lot of the talc ingredient used in the manufacture of cosmetic products. Further, manufacturers of talc-containing cosmetic products may rely on a certificate of analysis from the talc supplier if they qualify the supplier by establishing and maintaining the reliability of the supplier’s certificate of analysis by performing verification testing.
These methods will ensure that only products that meet strict safety standards get to land on store shelves, while the rest are shown the door.
Why Does This Matter for Regulated Industry?
The talc-asbestos connection has been a hot topic for years, especially with big-name companies facing lawsuits and public scrutiny over products that may have contained asbestos. The new rules could offer more consistency in how companies test their products—meaning fewer unwelcome surprises (hopefully).
The proposed rule also contains enforcement provisions. The FDA proposes that failure to operate in compliance with the testing or recordkeeping provisions of the rule would render the talc-containing cosmetic product adulterated under 601(c) for the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act (FDCA). In addition, the proposed rule states if asbestos is present in a cosmetic product, or in talc used in a cosmetic product, that cosmetic product would be deemed adulterated under 601(a) of the FDCA; and if asbestos is present in talc intended for use in a cosmetic, that talc is adulterated under the Act.
But wait, there’s more! The FDA’s proposal aims to enhance public trust in the beauty industry. The proposed rule, if finalized, would protect consumers by resulting in fewer asbestos-related illnesses, to the extent it reduces exposure to asbestos. Manufacturers would also benefit from fewer recalls of talc-containing cosmetics.
So bottom line, for manufacturers, formulators, beauty moguls, and more, this rule is a big deal. If you are in the cosmetics business and your product contains talc, you’ll now need to ensure your products go through the proper testing procedures. This includes possibly revamping product development processes, complying with testing recommendations and frequencies, budgeting for increased testing costs, and ensuring clear testing records are on file.
The Road Ahead: How Soon Will We See Change?
While this proposed rule is a promising step, it’s not something that will be implemented overnight. The FDA will review public comments, make revisions, and fine-tune the details, including providing an effective compliance date. However, it is important for regulated industry to begin considering testing protocols into production lines, training programs and documentation development.
A New Year and a New Era for Cosmetic Safety
In 2025, we may look back and say, “That was the year the FDA really cleaned up the makeup aisle.” If the proposed rule on asbestos testing in talc products passes, it will mark a significant shift in how the industry approaches consumer safety. It’ll be the end of the days when asbestos was an afterthought, and the dawn of a more rigorous, transparent, and accountable beauty world.
So, as you start your new year, consider this: while you’re out making your resolutions to get fit, eat more salads, or finally get your skincare routine together, you can also thank the FDA for kicking off the year with some serious action to develop consistent protocols for regulated industry and to protect consumer health—one talc-free, asbestos-free product at a time.
For more information on FDA’s proposed rule, or for other questions on FDA compliance and enforcement over cosmetics and personal care products, please contact info@garg-law.com.
